However, this project is more about what is fun than what is sensible, so I am sticking with the 40" MPT81's.
The purpose of this lift/leveling kit to to provide clearance for the tires. I have Bushwacker Cut Out Fenders installed (Part # 20044-02) and they nearly clear the 40's, but are not quite enough.
I did not want to lift the truck because it adds complexity, cost, and height. Accordingly, I went with Icon because they have a reputation for being the best and offer a simple 3" kit. I don't want any trouble from the lift. I plan to build a bumpstop spacer so that I maintain about the original suspension up-travel while clearing the large tire at the same time. I should gain some droop and maybe improved ride quality with the new shocks, Bilstein 5100's..
I ordered the Icon kit, part #33000-99 or 33099. Icon has different kits with confusing part numbers because there is a separate kit for the early '99 trucks, and another for the late '99 to 04' Superdutys.
The lesson is to make sure you are getting what you need, call the retailer.
I also ordered Bilstein 5100 shocks, Part# BILL 33-185545. The 5100's have a good reputation and the part number shown is specific to the front end of 99-04 Superdutys with 3-4.5" lift. Longer shocks are required, I was told. I think remote reservoir shocks are worth considering for some, but I went with regular 5100's.
I also ordered an adjustable track bar by Icon. This helps to center the axle under the truck, when the axle drops it also shifts side to side slightly. The adjustable bar allows the axle to be pulled back to center after the lift shifts it slightly. Part# 39290. They make two different track bars, make sure you get the one appropriate to your amount of lift.
I ordered everything from Performancelifts.com. I am happy with the service and my call to them about the product was answered quickly and the guy knew his stuff. They had good prices and I searched for, and found, a coupon code online. Saved me 40$ or so, shipping is free.
Icon did not include the torque specs in their instructions, just saying to tighten to factory hardware to factory spec. All the original hardware is reused. I bought a 1-month subscription to Helminc.com, which gives me access to VERY useful documents/manuals/service/repair info for my vehicle. The info is much more useful than a Chilton's style manual. I will include the torque specs here to save some time and money.
In addition to the Icon directions I recommend:
-Disconnecting the track bar before trying to install the new hangers and shackles. They suggest an adjustable track bar with this kit anyway, so just disconnect it from the get-go. If you are retaining the original track bar you may want to leave it as is. I worked hard to line things up and by the last shackle I could not get things to move. Once I disconnected the track bar it was a breeze.
-Icon says to loosen the U-bolts, which I did. I suggest skipping this step if you disconnect the track bar. If you still can't get things into place, loosen them as directed. With no track bar and loosened U-bolts it is very easy to shift the axle around and get the springs/hangers/shackles lined up.
-Take the time to clean up any rust around the spring hangers. Mr truck had some rust where the spring hanger bolts to, I covered it all with an anti corrosion lubricant and then greased the spring hanger itself, hoping to make is slide on easier and protect the pain to some degree.
-Icon says to remove the sway/stabilizer bar links, which I did. I don't see why just disconnecting them from either the frame, OR the sway bar, would not be sufficient.
-I had to remove two brackets that help support the radiator, or some other liquid/air heat exchanger, in order to slide out the bolt that holds the spring into the hanger, nothing to it.
-To remove the track bar (369ft/lbs), I used a 4 foot piece of metal pipe over the end of my 1/2in. ratchet and a Craftsman 12 point, 30mm socket, worked great. I would have used a 6 point if they had one at Sears. To loosen this hardware you need only to turn the bolt, not the nut. The nut has a tab that catches and holds the nut stationary. For the axle/passenger side, with the wheels removed, turn the steering lock to the right, it gives better access, then have the pipe coming out about 45 degree and above the leaf spring. Give it hell and some penetrating lubricant ahead of time. For the driver's/frame side, again manipulate the steering so you have good access.
-When you install the track bar you need so have some reference points so you know how much, and in which direction, to adjust it. The track bar basically pulls/pushes the truck left or right in comparison to the front axle. The goal is to have the truck perfectly centered over the axle at normal ride height. To do this, with the tires on, I hung a plumb bob off the edge of fender, without the fender flare installed, and used one of the holes drilled for the fender to give me a front/back reference point that is about the same on each side. Adjust the steering so the wheels are perfectly straight, then use a T-square or similar on the shoulder of the tire, see where the plumb bob makes contact with your measuring device and make the appropriate adjustment of the track bar until the plumb bob hits the same spot on each side. That is how I did it, I am sure there are other ways, Icon's directions give no information about how to measure things.
In this install you are going to be dealing with a bunch of torque specs over the 150ft/lbs my torque wrench is rated to. I looked around for a higher capacity torque wrench and they are very expensive and I could not find one to rent. So, take your 1/2in. ratchet and the long pipe, and this:
and this:
To do the installation of the lift kit, just follow Icon's directions and keep in mind my suggestions listed above. Same goes for the track bar. There is nothing really complicated about it, it takes more brawn than brains. Make sure to not allow your axle to droop to the point that the brake lines or ABS sensor cord are torn.
Here is a shot of the lift installed. You have the new shackle on the left, the new hanger on the right, the new shock in the center and the new track bar in the background center.
-Sway bar links, both frame to link and link to bar: 85 and/or 80, two different #'s given.
-Sway to frame (you will probably not need to loosen these): 41
-Spring shackle for both fasteners: 185
-Spring hanger: 203 for fastener holding spring in hanger, and 76 for all 7 fasteners holding the hanger. (Note: the guide only listed #'s for the 2 outboard fasteners, I extrapolated and used 76 for all 7 fasteners)
-Shock, both ends: 76
Track bar, both ends: 369
At this point in the process I hit a bit of a stumbling block. I put the lift in so that I could clear the new tires, but I can't come up with a good way to compress the suspension in a controlled manner. I came up with a few arrangements using bottle jacks, steel tube, chains, etc. where I could could things to compress some, but not enough. My plan was to compress the suspension until the tires made contact, or got very close, to the fenders. Then I would lower the bumpstop accordingly and have max up-travel without concern for the tires impacting the truck.
One option would be in remove the leafs and lower the frame down to the axle and see how things flush out with tire clearance. If you want to try this method, do it before you install the lift. It would make getting the spring hanger and shackle mounted a real breeze if there was no spring to contend with.
Being short on energy and time I looked for a simpler, faster solution and I think I found it: Timbren part #FF350SD4B. This is a total 6.5", extra tall, rubber spring/bump stop. It is not what Timbren calls for in the F450 application. FF350SD4B is for F350's with the snowplow package, I believe.
Anyway, I liked the pedestal that the comes in the kit because it drops the spring and that is what I needed. It is a softer spring than the F450 called for by Timbren.
The Timbren site gives spring part #'s in the install .PDF for each kit. The specifics for each spring can be found here:
http://timbren.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Double_Convolution-FindYourPartNow.pdf
Omit the zeros from the spring number you find and then match it the part number in the link.
These Timbrens were half the price of the recommended model for the F450, I bought them on Amazon and the price was the best and the shipping was essentially overnight and free, impressive.
I am going to call this good, and fit the fender liners and fender flares as tucked as I can be done with it.
Along those lines, two action shots of me cutting some sheet metal, all rights reserved by Dr. Bapic.
Here is a shot of the truck as it drives out of the garage for the first time in a while. It has been a brutal winter, it is nice to be able to work with door open, get the truck out, and some of the dirty, dusty, stinky air in the garage replaced with some clean spring air.
Here is a picture of a stainless eye bolt I used to attach zip ties and pull back the fender flare and fender liner. I've got four on the driver's side and two on the passenger's side. The eye is behind the fender, what you see is a washer and the ny-loc nut on the wheel side, with some Loc-Tite dripping out.
These picture show the contraption I rigged up to pull the emergency brake cable nearly flush with the sheet metal. Tighten the nut on the hook bolt to pull the cable back.
Part #:
20044-02
Part #:
20044-02
Part #:
20044-02
Part #:
20044-02
Part #:
20044-02
Part #:
20044-02
